Thanks to Charlie Stewart for sending pictures of the sailing trip from Sailboat Bay to Miami. As you will see in the pictorial of the trip, I left out a lot of “sailor stories”. Steve took the time this week to listen and edit the previous Blog. If you would like to read his additions, I suggest you go back to the first Blog. Thanks again to the guys for helping Steve get the boat to Miami so I could be with my family and still make the Bahamas trip. Google Picasa, then download the software to your computer which will allow you to see the pictures. This is a great site to manipulate your pictures and share with others.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cstewartphotos/LittleWingGulfShoresToMiami
Friday, April 4
Our conversation this morning centered on the decision whether to leave on Saturday or Sunday to the Bahamas. We talked about our discussion with Alice yesterday and felt we needed to gather more information from them about their plans. Alice and Jim from Indianapolis, Indiana, live on their boat, Caloosa Spirit, full time. As we sat in the cockpit talking, we noticed a dingy with the couple who were also making the crossing with Alice and Jim, head to the laundry facilities. I told Steve I would get the laundry together and we could go to shore and maybe talk with this couple about their plans.
Dawn and Bruce are in their mid to late sixties and live full time also, on a 44 foot Brewer, Lady Hawk. They were very helpful as we talked about the Gulf Stream crossing and other issues with regard to their itinerary. Their plans had not changed from our discussion with Alice. The weather forecast was for 10-15 knot winds from the south east with 2-4 foot seas. They would leave the harbor late afternoon, anchoring out front in the channel for an early start. Dawn said we might want to talk with another couple in the harbor who were looking for a buddy to make the crossing. We talked about other topics outside of sailing while we were finishing our laundry. They commented they two were newlyweds, having been married only six years. Bruce told Steve he hoped he “realized how lucky he was to find a woman who would share this passion for sailing.” Dawn finally finished their laundry and Bruce said he had a long list of task to finish before they could leave.
Steve and I continued to toss around the idea to either tag along with them or wait until Sunday when the winds were suppose to be 5-10 knots with 2-4 foot seas, but with a possibility of squalls in the afternoon.
I forgot to mention in the last blog about Willie and Jean. They are a cute couple who have been anchored in No Name Harbor for the last six weeks, working on their sail boat, readying it to go to the Bahamas. They live on their boat fulltime. For you boat lovers, it is an old 42 foot Tayana, named “Satisfaction .” We call Willie the “Mayor” of No Name Harbor. He is full of information and willing to share with all fellow cruisers. You will see dinghy’s parked at his boat; hear discussions about the weather, the best time to make the crossing and the best way to anchor your boat in the harbor, etc. He will tell anyone in a heartbeat they are anchoring too close to him or the holding in a particular spot is not good and they will end up in the mangroves if a good blow comes up. Steve says he does know a lot about the area, crossing the Gulf Stream and other useful information. It’s good to know he would assist you in a pinch if needed.
After we left the laundry, Steve decided he needed to have a conference with Willie to get his insight about making the jump on Saturday morning. On one of Willie’s frequent trips to shore with his dog, Steve flagged him down on his return. They discussed the weather predicted for the next two days, the advantages and disadvantages of crossing either Saturday with Colossa Spirit/Lady Hawk or Sunday possibly with another boat named, Cyterea. Willie said, “If you partner up with someone you don’t really know, you also take on their problems.” Steve reminded me later about a sign we saw in Key West that read, “Your lack of preparation does not make my emergency.” What should we do? We finally decided around lunch to make the jump across the Gulf Stream by tagging along with the two sailboats leaving out early Saturday morning.
We spent the afternoon getting the boat prepared to make the crossing. This means you have to stow and secure everything that is not permanently locked in place. We pulled up anchor around 6:00 p.m. and headed out into Biscayne Bay to anchor with Colossa Spirit and Lady Hawk. We ate dinner and watched the sunset over the bay.
Lady Hawk, shouted at us around 8:30 p.m. saying they were “turning in,” pretending it was 10:00 p.m. and hoping to get some sleep before their 2:00 a.m. wake up call. She also told us that we could monitor each other on channel 69. Plans were to shove off around 3:00 a.m. We decided to try to retire early, also. The wind began to build not long after we went to bed and the boat began to “rock and roll.” We both tried to go to sleep, but we were excited and anxious about the crossing. We also realized the “LaBamba” music we were hearing was coming from the harbor and prayed it wouldn’t continue until the wee hours of the morning like it did last Friday night!
The wind continued to build and we realized, while looking out the ports, that all three boats were heading in three different directions. The current was strong around our anchorages and the opposing wind caused a” washing machine” affect on the boats. Every time our boat would swing one way, the anchor line would rub against the bow of the boat and hop across the spare anchor on the bow roller, creating a creaking, clanging, bumping noise. This action every 4-5 minutes lasted until we finally “just” got up before the 2:15 a.m. wake up alarm. Pretty bad night!
Saturday, April 5
I tried to get my game face on for the day ahead. We decided to skip coffee and breakfast, settling on a pack of crackers and water. As far as I could tell, our friends in Colossa Spirit and Lady Hawk were not awake. Steve listened to the weather forecast on the radio while I secured the remaining gear on the boat. Winds were blowing 15-20 knots from the south, not the predicted 10-15 knots. This was going to be a little rough, but we had experienced these conditions before and felt we were up for the challenge.
All the necessary equipment was assembled and put where it was needed. Steve started the engine for it to warm up around 2:30 a.m. I noticed lights on in both boats and heard Alice, in Colossa Spirit say, “Let’s get out of here! I feel like I have been in a washing machine all night and I am that lost sock somewhere!’ Dawn and Steve together “rogered” her comments over the radio. We raised the anchor around 3:00 a.m., motoring across the Key Biscayne Bay Channel, following close behind Colossa Spirit because it was pitch black with no channel markers visible. They had traversed the channel before and had “way points” saved on their chart plotter. Lady Hawk was following close behind Little Wing. Steve was at the helm while I was watching the depth and wind indicator. I noticed several times the winds registered over 20 knots on the wind speed gauge. We were bouncing around but making good time and continuing out the channel.
Colossa Spirit had hoisted their main sail prior to departure. Because Lady Hawk and Little Wing are roller furler main sails, we were waiting until we cleared the channel to raise the main. It was approximately 4:00 a.m. by the time we rounded the last buoy in the channel and motored into the Atlantic. Out in the distance we could see two large cruise ships headed to Miami.
We were getting bounced around pretty good by the 5-6 foot seas. Steve said, “I’ve got to get some sail out to smooth out the ride. Take the helm.” About this time we noticed that all navigation equipment displays had gone blank. These include the GPS, wind, depth, speed and autopilot. Not a good thing to happen in a dark, unfamiliar ocean in 6 foot seas! He quickly climbed below, turned off the electronic and radar switch to rebut the system, but that didn’t work. He tried again. He pushed the buttons on the instrument panel but that didn’t work either. He again climbed below. Stuff was crashing everywhere. The tea kettle broke loose from its holder and fell on the floor, spilling the water I had left inside the kettle. Cushions and everything on the settees fell to the floor. Steve was getting tossed around like a ball below, while I was trying to keep the boat behind Colossa Spirit. Finally, Steve said, “There is probably a fuse blown, but I can’t find where it is. I don’t think we need to continue to the Bahamas without our electronic system working.”
He then radioed to Colossa Spirit and Lady Hawk our situation and our decision to turn back. They wished us well and hoped to see us again in the Bahamas. Now what do we do? Go in at the Government Cut ahead and anchor, or turn around and go back to No Name Harbor, the way we had come just a few hours earlier. The boat continued bouncing around as we headed north with the wind probably blowing 20-25 knots. Steve confessed that he was a little nauseous from working frantically below trying to get the electronic problem diagnosed and would I take the helm a while. At this point, we were only a few miles off shore with a spectacular nighttime view of the Miami skyline. I remember wishing our conditions were more agreeable permitting us to enjoy the night scenery along the Atlantic coast.
Steve instructed me to keep the boat heading north using the compass as my guide. Ahead, we could see several cruise ships already in the Government Cut Channel headed into port. Clint mentioned to us in conversation earlier, the channel is sometimes off-limits to personal boaters when cruise ships are making their way into or out of port. With this information in mind, the fact that we had never been in this channel before and our instruments were not working, we needed to go back to Biscayne Bay Channel. This meant we had to turn around and face the south wind and the 4-6 foot waves. Before Lady Hawk lost contact with us, they radioed one last time to check on our progress. Steve updated them and hoped that we would run into them again in the Bahamas.
Steve made the first turn into the wind and continued steering south while I took a break. I went below and retrieved a coke and Ginger Snaps for Steve in hopes they would settle his stomach. Some twenty to thirty minutes later, he turned around and headed north. He confessed again that his stomach was churning and asked me to take over the helm. We continued back and forth along the coastline, watching the clock as it slowly ticked away until dawn. Steve felt ,for safety sake, we needed to wait until daybreak to enter the channel, since we did not have a way to determine the water depth in the area and he knew there was a lot of shallow water.
We continued back and forth. Steve was being to experience a little drowsiness from the Bomine (sea sickness pills) and I felt better at the helm instead of hanging on in the cockpit. Steve continued to check our time and monitor our distance from the shore until he finally said it was time to head to the channel maker. The boat continued to “rock and roll” in the 4-6 foot seas and the 15-20 knot wind. We were just guessing these statistics since our instruments were dead!
We were relieved and happy to finally see the sun rise. I continued steering until we approached the entrance channel marker at Biscayne Bay Channel. Steve took over, even though he was still experiencing a little drowsiness, guiding Little Wing to No Name Harbor and dropping anchor.
It was approximately 9:30 a.m. - SAFE AT LAST! Don’t get me wrong, I was never afraid. I have tremendous trust in Steve’s judgment and sailing skills and knew we would make it back to our anchorage. It was just a rough ride!
Mayor Willie yelled out at us just as we finished anchoring to get the details, but we were too tired to have a discussion about anything! All we wanted to do was crawl into our berth and get some sleep. We didn’t awake until late afternoon famished and ready for food. We lazed around the remainder of the day: another Saturday of weekend boaters cruising around the harbor. Steve detailed our attempted crossing with Willie and then tried to diagnose the problem with the instruments. He continued to think we had a blown fuse and decided to take the face panel off and look in the back of the breaker panel. No luck. He finally decided to wait until Monday morning when he would call Turner Marine for assistance.
There were a large number of both sailboats and motorboats anchored in the harbor tonight which would prove to create havoc later.
Sunday, April 6
We went to be bed under thunderstorm warnings with predictions of strong gusty winds, lightning and possible hail. Around 5:00 a.m., we were awakened by strong winds blowing the boat around. We were anchored very close to the mangroves and rocky edge of the harbor and concerned about dragging and going aground. Looking out across the harbor, we witnessed boats breaking loose from their anchorage and bumping into other boats. Everyone was scrambling to keep their boat out of the way of other boaters swirling around in the gusts. I heard Willie yell out, “Steve, your dragging,” just as Steve was reaching to turn the boat motor on. I jumped out and into the cockpit knowing I would have to steer as he pulled up the anchor. The wind gusts were pretty strong and there was a torrential rainfall. Looking out in the harbor, it looked like a “Chinese fire drill!” Steve steered us to the northern side of the harbor where we anchored and waited out the remainder of the squall. We knew our best chance was to get away from all the weekend boaters. I think we crawled into bed around 6:30 a.m. and didn’t get up until 9:30 a.m.
Sunday was spent pretty much like last Sunday in No Name Harbor. We were entertained by the folks in a trawler next to us as they spent most of the afternoon (3 hours) grooming their large dog. He had a nice perch on the stern of the boat where he was bathed, brushed and she even blew dried his fur. He just stood at attention during the entire grooming appointment. What a lucky dog! I think I need a little of that treatment after the last two nights.
We enjoyed afternoon sundowners, ate dinner and listened again to the marine weather forecast. Another thunderstorm was headed our way from the north. We “buttoned down” everything and watched the intriguing light show get closer and closer. Approximately 9:30 p.m. the squall hit the harbor full force. We began to rock but our anchor was holding, even though we were swinging from north to south. We watched again as other boaters experienced the same havoc we had experienced the night before. The lightening was very intimidating and the wind was forceful. Steve figured there were at least 40 knot wind gusts.
Remember the trawler/grooming saloon? As they swung around they began to drag and ended up in the mangroves. We watched the captain pull forward and the “misses” appear on the bow trying to get the anchor up. We could see her struggle with the anchor line as well as the strong gusty wind and torrential rain. They attempted to anchor again close to the same spot with no luck and finally decided to move further to the mouth of the harbor, away from the mangroves and with hopefully a better holding. I felt sorry for the lady having to go out on the bow over and over again. Steve said he didn’t understand why her husband hadn’t taught her how to steer the boat so he could manage the anchor and anchor line. He said it was too dangerous for her to be out there. (That is why Steve taught me how to steer so he could manage the anchoring. I might add we are getting pretty good at it.) They spent at least thirty minutes trying to anchor. Other boats were experiencing this same nightmare. Some were trying to dock at the concrete wall-what a mistake!
We finally got into bed around midnight.
Monday, April 7
I couldn’t believe it when I was awakened at 3:30 a.m. by another squall. This one proved to be even more forceful that the ones before. We rode it out without dragging or having to move to another location. Steve kept the motor running just in case the sailboat next to us might swing too close to Little Wing. The thunderstorm finally passed through around 5:00 a.m. Sleep-deprived again! Willie informed us on Monday he had clocked 70 knot winds during the storm.
Headed north after first storm
At 9:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m. your time, Steve phoned Turner Marine asking for Keith or Scott. Neither was available but Prince was able to guide Steve to an electronic box location in the lazarette. There he would find a panel that houses fuses. Steve unloaded equipment in the lazarette in order to have room to crawl in the hole. I was on standby to hand tools down when he needed them. “Yep” as Steve said, one ten cent, 5 amp fuse was the cause of all our troubles. Once Steve replaced it with a spare fuse that was already in the box, the electronics worked “like a jewel.”
I spent the day reading James Patterson’s book “Jack and Jill” while Steve worked on the boat. He opened all the storage bins to air out and strung all the anchor lines out across the top of the boat to dry in the sun. We finally left the boat late in the afternoon to walk around for a little exercise before cocktail hour and dinner. I think we retired as soon as night fell.
Tuesday, April 8
We walked to the library this morning. Steve wanted to check his bank account and emails and I wanted to work on the journal, check the blog account and watch the last episode of The Apprentice. Steve left me after finishing his business with stops by Winn Dixie, CVS and Ace Hardware. (He wanted to purchase extra fuses.) I worked several hours before I realized it was way pass lunchtime. I walked across the street to a small mall where I found a neat little Greek restaurant. After I finished lunch, looked around several gift shops, a really expensive couture shop, and an art gallery, I headed to CVS for several purchases. As I began my trek back to the harbor, I checked my cell phone to find Steve had left me a message to “come home” because it was beginning to sprinkle and predictions were for thunderstorms. The walk is very pleasant as you pass by a beautifully manicured entrance to the Ritz Carlton Resort and several upscale condominiums. The median is lined with tall palm trees evenly spaced as far as you can see. The sidewalks are scored with an artist design instead of your basic square sections and they are stained a light peach. The only negative you might say in this walk is the 10 pound backpack I have to carry. I need the exercise and know that the ice cold cocktail I will have when I get to the boat will relieve my stress from carrying this heavy load.
I haven’t detailed our menus this trip, but I will tell you that Steve grilled a delicious piece of salmon he bought fresh at the market along with a baked potato, salad and bread. We had to dine inside tonight because the scattered showers had arrived at the harbor and the cockpit was wet.
Steve continues to run the generator on Tuesday nights so I can enjoy watching American Idol. He doesn’t particularly care for the show and opted to sit in the cockpit dodging the rain drops while talking on the phone. Oh, for the comforts of home on occasions.
Wednesday, April 9
Steve and I walked to the Biscayne Bay beach today, but found it to be less than desirable. I have posted some pictures for your judgment.
Cape Florida Lighthouse
This is the Atlantic beach. Isn’t it awful? There were all kinds of produce and trash along the shore line and the sand was a gray brown color. We continue to appreciate the beauty of our white, sandy beaches along the gulf in Alabama, as we travel across the country.
Willie and Jean invited us to eat dinner with them at Boater’s Grill, the restaurant at the harbor. We enjoyed learning more about their adventures and asked for suggestions of places and activities we need to include in our agenda while in the Bahamas. We met Ken, an interesting character; white headed, maybe in his mid to late sixties, who comes into the harbor every morning around 8:00 a.m. on his sailboat, Sea Isle. His homeport is Wilmington, Delaware. He anchors his boat and then makes this crowing call to someone in the restaurants who comes out and returns a similar crowing call. Very intriguing!. Ken gets in his dinghy and rows into shore, gets on his bike and leaves. I asked Willie where he goes but he didn’t know. Ken has this unique way of rowing by individually moving the oars one at a time in quick even strokes. Looks relatively easy as an onlooker, but I doubt it would be for the novice. Ken for sure has oared many miles and perfected this technique. Tonight in the restaurant he had on a casual navy blue t-shirt(no wrinkles), white jeans that had nice creases on the legs and a navy army type belt. He was styling for a sailor. I found it usually, especially to see such crisp, creases in his jeans. Does he send out his laundry? Would you believe he came to our table, took out his shiny pocket knife and slice four piece of a chocolate Cadberry candy bar and said, “Here is a little dessert.” I stuck out my hand and introduced myself and the others did the same.
Boater’s Grill
Thursday, April 10
We pulled up anchor and motored to Dinner Key Marina to purchase fuel and hopefully get the water tank filled. It was a beautiful day with hopefully enough wind that we would be able to sail on our return to the harbor.
While at the docks, we witnessed a trail of lightweight racing boats leave the marine in mass. I lost count around fifty. I asked the dock assistant what was going on and he said they were having practice sessions for the North American Junior Olympic Sailing Teams. I saw boats from Sweden, Norway, Spain, Australia, Canada, Italy, Brazil, Ukraine, Hungry, Russia, Great Britain and the USA.
Once out in Biscayne Bay, we were able to get the sails out and cruising between 5 and 6 knots. We had a north wind coming in on the port beam sailing at a beam reach and then a close reach. This was the first time I had sailed since arriving in Miami almost a month ago. It was almost perfect!
The water had finally warmed up enough that I was convinced by Steve to go swimming in the harbor. It was a little chilly at first, but refreshing. The remainder of the afternoon we sat in the cockpit observing boaters anchoring in the harbor.
Finally, the weather forecast is for south winds on Saturday and Sunday. We began making plans. We arranged for Clint to again taxi us to the grocery store in exchange for dinner and conversation.
After dinner, I worked on the journal with Steve helping to fill in the details I had missed.
Friday, April 11
I am sitting at the pavilion now, looking out at Biscayne Bay while doing the laundry. What a lovely office view; palm trees swaying in the breeze, turquoise water glistening in the sun, boaters cruising by , a few visitors making conversation. What a life! I am blessed.
The southerly winds are still in the forecast for tomorrow and our plans to depart at 3:00 a.m. are still on the schedule.
Friday, April 11, 2008
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