Wednesday, April 15, 2009

4.6/Monday George Town

The outboard motor is finally working again. The fresh tank of gas did the trick. Plans were made to move to Sand Dollar Beach after lunch with Sunseeker, anchor, go to the beach and look for Sand Dollars. Instead, we rode the dinghy to a cove/cut where Frank and Barb were snorkeling. By the time we reached the cut, tide was going out and we didn’t want to drag our dinghies through the sand. We decide to go back and walk along Sand Dollar beach and explore the area for trails to lead you over the hill to the ocean.

Both boats moved to Kidd Cove, just across Elizabeth Harbor, and anchored late in the afternoon. Sounds like a lot of trouble, but George and Karen assured us a short dinghy ride from Kidd Cove into town was dryer than a long ride from Sand Dollar Beach or Monument Bay when the water is choppy.. It was 4:00 pm before we finally arrived in George Town. Steve made a quick stop at the hardware store to look for a water can and Karen and I made a quick run through the Straw Market. I was looking for Andorisa baskets and other souvenirs and Steve found a t-shirt. George and Karen introduced us to the Internet café; Karen said it look like an old chicken coop to her. Look at my picture and see what you think? The young Bahamian couple was very pleasant, helpful, and I sat down to check emails and call Catherine, Emily, and Mom. Steve did the grocery shopping while I stayed at the Internet café, because the store was closing at 6:00 pm. Once he took the groceries back to the boat, he walked back to meet me so he could Skpye Jessica, Jennifer, and his parents.

We spent the night at Kidd Cove because the winds were blowing from the south, southwest and this area would provide the best protection. We enjoyed visiting with George and Karen at sunset, trying to decide if we were going to go with them to Long Island.

Steve had a restless night due to the smoke which we think came from burning trash at the dump. The only other way to dispose of all the trash would be to haul it off the island and that would be rather expensive. He told me in the morning his throat felt like he had smoked cigarettes all night.

4.7/Tuesday George Town

We made another quick trip to the grocery market this morning to pick up a few items we realized we needed before we moved back to Sand Dollar Beach. The weather forecast predicted north, northwest winds 15-20 knots, clocking around to north, northeast on Wednesday. Because Kidd Cove was a crowded anchorage and there was a lot of traffic back and forth into George Town, Sand Dollar Beach offered a more quite anchorage.

Steve and I both did some laundry on the boat in the kitchen sink and our 5 gallon bucket. Back to the ways of our ancestors!

We visited on AnnaLeigh with Frank and Barb in the afternoon. Barb gave me some shells she had found and advised me about how to look for shells around the reefs and along the ocean floor. The wind had picked up and the waves were pretty choppy on the dinghy ride back to Little Wing, resulting in wet clothes.

I started a new book in the late afternoon,” A Tree Grows in Brooklyn” by Betty Smith. While I was in the cockpit reading, a large yacht anchored next to us and began removing a small sailboat from the upper deck. Once the boat was rigged, one of the crew sailed off, maneuvering around the boats anchored in the cove. With 15 knots winds he was flying. Later an older man and a teenage boy got on the sailboat and took off. Were they practicing for the family regatta that will be held in a few weeks in Elizabeth Harbor or just out for a fun afternoon. I have some great pictures.

During the night, the wind continued to blow 15-20 knots. Steve checked the anchor holding several times during the night to make sure we were dragging.

4.8/Wednesday George Town

The cold front had arrived forcing us to dig out our long sleeve shirts and sweat pants. We did a little cleaning, vacuuming, and general boat tidying up while the generator was running.
After lunch, we took the dinghy over to the beach, where we picked up a trail that leads to the ocean. We hiked along the rocky cliffs and along the bluffs until we finally worked our way to the ocean water. As we walked along the jagged coral bank, we saw all kinds of critters; sea urchins and all types of shell fish were along the coral. As we continued along another trail, not knowing where it would lead, we came upon a Mockingbird that caught Steve’s’ attention. He stopped and began whistling a tune to the Mockingbird. The Mockingbird replied and this banter continued between the two. I took a picture of the bird, but I am not sure if you can see her/him in the thicket.

Continuing along the trail, we finally came out at a cut that we thought was the place Barb and Frank said was a great snorkeling area. We walked around looking for shells; Steve walked to the end of the beach to the point looking for a way back to the dinghy. Since it was low tide, it was easy to walk around in knee deep water. I found a number of shells I have never found before as well as a few sand dollars. I also was able to see a coral reef that was quite beautiful with pretty pink and dark purples sea fans. The water was so low I didn’t need my snorkel mask to see all the sea life in the area. When the temperature warms up later in the week, we plan to come back with snorkel gear to get a closer look.

Another trail materialized as we walked to the point, which we decided to explore, thinking it might lead us across the island and to our dinghy. Along the trail we came upon a unique fresh water bird bath that we refilled with water and also we saw a number of large crab holes were live crab were hiding. The trail did bring us out to the south end of Sand Dollar Beach and we continued looking for shells in the shallow water. We probably found over twenty sand dollars and a few interesting shells that we will have to look up their names. My hands were full as well as Steve’s by the time we reached the dinghy. It was a fun day and I enjoyed getting off the boat.

While Steve ran the generator, we watch an Indiana Jones movie that was silly. It was my first Indiana Jones movie to see; hopefully, the others were much better than this one.

3.9/Thursday George Town

I spent the morning soaking my shells in Clorox and putting them out in the sun to dry. I hope I get them home without breaking them; they are so delicate.

Late afternoon we took the dinghy to Volleyball beach to see what was going on and check out Chat and Chill Restaurant. This is one of the larger beach areas that vacationers come to relax and sit on the beach. Every day at 2:30 pm you can play volleyball, chess, dominoes, swap books and DVDs, meet other boaters, share information, and enjoy the cabanas and palm trees swaying in the breeze. We saw little kids as young as three, teenagers, young adults, middle age adults and old farts like us! It looked like everyone was relaxing. We enjoyed a Mahi-Mahi sandwich and French fries for dinner, before we headed back before sun down to the boat.

3.10/Friday George Town

Barb invited Steve and I to go snorkeling with them after lunch to a little area they found that had three cuts with water flowing in from the Atlantic Ocean. This is their second or third trip to George Town and they know all the good spots to find shells and explore the coral reefs.
It took me about thirty minutes to get accustomed to my snorkeling equipment. I guess it is like riding a bike; you never forget how to do it you just need to familiarize yourself with the techniques again. Steve found one Queens Helmet shell and I found two. I also found shells of sea urchins, sea biscuits, sand dollars, and these really pretty shells that look like butterflies. Barb, Fran, Phyllis, and Gerald had wet suits but Steve and I braved the chilly water. I tried to stay under water in the warm spots because the wind was chilly if you stood up. I can’t wait to go back.

3.11/Saturday George Town

After a little boat cleaning and lunch, we rode across Elizabeth Harbor to the dinghy dock. We needed to get a few supplies, if we decided to go with AnnaLeigh and Ally Cat to Long Island Cay on Tuesday. All the stores will be closed on Sunday and Monday in celebration of Easter. We also wanted to walk around George Town and explore several stores before we made our grocery run.

I looked around the Straw Market while Steve was in the hardware/fishing/anything else store down the street. The Bahamian ladies are very resourceful when it comes to repurposing items such as straw, shells, and jewelry. I found several baskets that had unique shapes and detail designs. I met one of the ladies, Arizona, who was in her eighties, who explained how they take straw and use it like thread to weave their designs. I was fascinated but I don’t think I have the technique down to make my own. I didn’t barter about the price of their baskets because I realize how many hours it takes to make one.

We also looked around another store that specialized in paintings, sculpture, and photographs. One item that caught my eye was a small bowl made from cutting a conch shell in half. One side of the half had a bowl effect that was large enough to put dip in to serve as an appetizer. They also carved a primitive looking spoon with the left over conch. I don’t know why I didn’t take a picture, but maybe we will go back there before we leave.

The Exuma Market (grocery store) is not even as large as our CVS stores in the states. The isles will barely allow for two buggies to pass and they usually have boxes of goods in the aisles waiting to be priced and put on the shelves. A cargo boat usually arrives two or three times a week with supplies, so many times customers help themselves to the items in the boxes that they need. Steve finally found a loaf of French bread that he had to get from a large box on the floor. Grocery shopping is always a challenge.

The water was calm, crystal clear, and beautiful late in the day. We enjoyed sitting in the cockpit watching the sun go down and enjoying a late dinner.

3.13/Sunday George Town

Barb, Phyllis, Gerald and I rode the bus to Williams Town with a number of other cruisers to enjoy an afternoon of home cook food, walk around the Williams Town settlement, and support the local St. Mary Magdalene Anglican Episcopal Church. The Monday after Easter is a holiday in most Bahamian towns, with most all stores closed. An invitation was extend to cruisers to attend the celebration/fair at the community center, some twenty minutes south of George Town. We wanted to find out what some of the other communities on Great Exuma Island were like, so we signed up to go.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a member of the church and escorted to the small building where we could purchase our lunch, beverage, and dessert. The menu was BBQ Chicken, Ribs, Fried Grouper, Conch, Mutton and Steak with macaroni, peas and rice, salad, cold slaw, or tossed salad. I love the Bahamian peas and rice. It is made with pigeon peas and has a browning liquid added during the cooking that flavors the rice and makes it brown. One of the ladies in the kitchen was kind to give me her recipe and explain how she prepares it. Barb and I took our plates and walked across the road to the beach where we found a flat rock to sit on to eat our lunch.

After eating, we walked to ruins of an old plantation, saw the salt mines at a distance, wondered along a path to the ocean, and enjoyed the children playing games at the community center. I wanted to ask if they “hide Easter eggs” or is that a practice only in the US, but I didn’t.
Most of the people in this small community live in homes that need a lot of repair and the other homes vacant would be considered run-down shacks in the United States. You see remnants of hurricane damage on most all homes and many dilapidated homes that should be torn down are still standing.

I loved the stain glass windows in the church. On one side of the church, the windows depict stories in the Bible, and the other side depicts life on the island. They were quite stunning in the afternoon sun.

I hope the church made a lot of money today.

Steve stayed at the boat today, refilling the water tanks, defrosting the refrigerator and relaxing. He someway twisted his back yesterday and was getting around a little slowly. He was also charting our trip north sometime this week. We had a beautiful sunset this evening.

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